Ever watched an episode of Netflix’s Dark Tourist, where journalist David Farrier visits unusual and often grim tourism sports around the world?
Well, I think it’s time Farrier took a visit to Trunyan (Terunyan) Village.
Often nicknamed as “Skull Island,” this remote village lies on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, in the Kintamani District of Central Bali. Known to be one of Bali’s oldest villages – dating back to at least 911 CE – it cannot be reached easily for locals and tourists alike. But the mysterious air that surrounds the Trunyan name is not just found in their isolation.
The Trunyan people honor the dead not by burying them, nor by cremating them… but by laying down their skulls underneath the Taru Menyan tree.
Yeah, you heard that right.
The Legend of Trunyan Village
It started hundreds of years ago, where a king from Surakarta (now a city in Central Java) had four children: three sons and one daughter. One day, the siblings got a whiff of a powerful, intoxicating scent, so they ventured to the east to find it.
After days of traveling, they found themselves in Bali. When they finally arrived in Mount Batur, the daughter decided to stay as she was unable to continue the rocky journey. She received the title Ratu Ayu Mas Maketeg.
The three sons continued their journey. However, after a fight between the eldest and the youngest prince, the eldest convinced the reluctant youngest to settle there (now Kedisan Village). He received the title Ratu Sakti Sang Hyang Jero.
Going around Lake Batur, the last two princes witnessed two beautiful women. The second prince approached them, much to the eldest's dismay. Another argument broke out between the brothers where the second prince lost, and so he settled in what would be called Abang Dukuh Village, and him Ratu Sakti Dukuh.
Finally, the eldest prince reached his destination. He met a beautiful girl under the Taru Menyan tree. They fall in love and, in order to get married, he has to become a protector for that dwelling: Trunyan Village, then a small kingdom.
The eldest prince accepted and earned the title of Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat. He ordered the bodies of those who died to be placed under the Menyan tree to absorb the fragrance emitted by the trees. This was also to prevent other kingdoms from attacking, with the corpses as a warning to potential threats.
Taru means "tree" and Menyan means "fragrant".
Mepasah: How The Trunyan Bury Their Dead
The indigenous people in Bali follow the island’s distinctive brand of Hinduism, but every village grows to adopt their own rituals and cultural traditions.
This tradition is called Mepasah, which belongs uniquely to the Trunyan people.
First of all, the body is cleaned with rainwater and wrapped in white cloth, safe for the head which is not to be covered. Then, the body is laid in a bamboo cage called ancak sanji to avoid interference from wild animals.
When all the cages are full – therefore when a maximum of 11 bamboo cages are placed beneath the Taru Menyan tree, as 11 is a rich number in Hinduism – the oldest corpses will be removed to make room for new corpses by placing them on a pile, usually in an open area filled and under rocks and other trees. As the body is destroyed by the heat of the sun, hence the flesh will be gone, the bones will be placed on an altar under the sacred 1,000-year-old tree.
There are three separate burial places:
- Sema Wajah, for those who died naturally and the most sacred burial out of all;
- Sema Bantas, for unnatural deaths such as accidents and suicides;
- Sema Muda, dedicated to babies, children and unmarried adults.
The interesting thing is, women from Trunyan Village are not allowed to visit the cemeteries. Legend says that the village will suffer from an earthquake or volcanic eruption if a woman attends a funeral. So only men are allowed to deliver the body during the funeral process – from preparation to burial.
After the funeral, it is also mandatory for the men to undergo a self-purifying process before having access back to the Pancering Temple.
Spiritual Powers of the Taru Menyan Tree
While others might shy away from their eerie traditions, the Trunyan actually prosper in its spirituality.
The Taru Menyan tree plays an important role in the cultural identity of the Bali Aga people, the Baliaga or Bali Mula (the indigenous people of Bali), with Trunyan Village being one of their most prominent homes.
The ancient tree is considered sacred because they believe it possesses special spiritual powers. They believe it is a place of transition between the souls of the deceased to when they start their journey to the afterlife.
The Banyan represents growth, strength and self-awareness through reflection, mediation and quieting of one’s mind. –Tree Spirit Wisdom
More specifically, In Hindu lore, the Banyan tree is a heavenly tree as it is said to be the place where the gods and spirits of deceased ancestors gather, emitting large amounts of spiritual energy. It is also believed that the Buddha found enlightenment after sitting under the Banyan tree for 7 days.
The Menyan tree is therefore a protected species in Bali. It is illegal to cut down or harm the tree in any way.
Ready for a spiritual journey?
If you’re interested in visiting Trunyan Village, whether that’s for the skulls or the spirituality, here’s how you can get there.
The remote village is on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, in the Kintamani District of Central Bali. Therefore, so you first need to head to Kintamani – approximately a two-hour drive from Canggu or Seminyak. Then, take a boat from the local dock of Songan Village, located on the west coast of Lake Batur.
You’ll reach the crossing in under 45 minutes.
(Of course, it’s recommended to visit with a tour guide.)
Real human skulls, unusual Balinese Hindu traditions, but also a spiritual energy that resonates throughout the forest – it is quite a sight to behold. Come witness the massive 1,000-year-old, ancient, magical tree.
Be advised with small children: these are real corpses on display.